If you find a photo you'd can't live without, purchasing a print from the same photographer who captured it is the best way to make sure it looks as amazing on your wall as it does on the screen. Regardless of how many prints you order or what size or paper you choose, you can be assured that I will treat your order as if it were going on my own wall. That means no mass-production labs, individual inspection of every print, and the exclusive use of 100% archival materials from beginning to end.

Below is some information about my different print sizes, finishes, and delivery options. You can contact me any time if you have questions that weren't answered here.

Print sizes

All print sizes refer to the dimensions of the paper the images is printed on, including a white border to facilitate easier framing and a hand-written title and signature. Prints from limited editions also include a sequential number on the print and come with a separate certificate of authenticity. For a general idea of how big each size looks on a wall, you can have a look at the graphic below.

Just a few of the things that set my genuine fine art prints apart

• Archival everything, from the pigment inks to the 100% cotton-base papers. If it's not gallery-quality, I won't use it!
• Choice of traditional baryta (lustre) or smooth matte finish.
  
• Color and light fast ratings of 80+ years under proper display conditions.
• Your image will never see the inside of a mass-production lab. Smaller formats are printed at my studio in Montreal, while the folks at Cone Editions Press (the studio that more or less invented fine art digital printing) across the border in Vermont take care of large editions.
  
• Printed, inspected, titled, and signed by hand.
• Arrives ready to hang in the frame of your choice.
• My satisfaction guarantee: if your print arrives damaged or it doesn't look right, let me know and I will make it right.

Paper

Photographs were meant to be printed and displayed, not just seen on a computer. But once they've been printed, they only look as good as the materials used to print them. Moreover, consumer-grade ink and paper often contain acid and dye as opposed to pigment, resulting in a print that isn't archival or light-fast and quickly degrades, fades, yellows, or changes color. And while a mass production lab that never even sees your files before printing them on cheap glossy photo paper might consider all of these things "good enough", it's nowhere near the standard that art collectors have rightly come to expect, to say nothing of my own expectations for my work.

There are two paper options I currently offer for prints, both made by Hahnemühle in Germany exclusively for inkjet photo printing. Baryta paper is the most popular, and it has been producing consistently exceptional results. It's an all-cotton, acid- and lignin-free paper with a genuine barium sulfate coating that provides a gentle shimmer and rich color saturation without creating unpleasant glare. Hahnemühle's baryta paper is archival, free of optical brighteners and meets or exceeds the international standards for museum quality and highest resistance to aging. If you prefer a non-reflective surface, I also offer Hahnemühle ultra smooth matte, which is made from the same 100% cotton rag base, but has no reflective coating. The paper surface is silky smooth and excels at reproducing fine detail and accurate colors. It's also fully archival, acid-, lignin-, and brightener-free, and meets the same museum quality standards as the baryta paper. Regardless of the paper option you choose, your image will be printed on a professional twelve-color pigment ink printer (pigment is archival, dye isn't!), and personally inspected, titled, signed, and packed for shipping by me. And if your order arrives damaged or doesn't look right, you can let me know and I will make it right. I stand behind every print I ship, no matter the size or the number, so if there's a problem, you'll only be dealing with me, not a nameless entity in a place you've never even heard of.

FAQ

I keep seeing the word "archival" everywhere. What does it actually mean?

It means that the ink is pigment-based, not dye-based, and that it will not fade or shift in color for a minimum of eighty years when properly displayed. Archival printing paper, meanwhile, has no acid or lignin that will discolor the surface over time. Lower-quality ink and paper is often not archival, so I don't use it, even though it's much cheaper. Using archival ink and paper is an important step in making sure your print looks the same today as it will decades down the road.

OK, so what is "properly displayed", then?

In general, it means framing with acid-free backing and foam core, using glass that has UV light protection, and making sure the print isn't hung in direct sunlight. All foam core and/or cardboard backing that my prints ship with is acid-free and suitable for use in framing.

Why don't you offer metal prints? I see them everywhere now!

The term "metal prints" is a bit of a misnomer, as the sheet of polished aluminum doesn't ever go through a printer. Instead, it's a dye sublimation process that transfers an image from a special transfer medium to a metal panel. The transfer medium is what actually goes through a printer, and through a combination of heat and pressure, the image is essentially evaporated onto the surface of the metal, which gives you the final "print" that goes on the wall. So what's the problem with all of this? It's not the metal per se; it's the dye-based ink that's used to create the image. Dye is not considered archival, so although it works extremely well in heat transfers, it doesn't have the same permanence, stability, and longevity that pigment does. Put simply, dye fades; pigment doesn't. For that reason, I don't sell or market anything that uses dye, which, unfortunately, includes metal prints.

Is there anything comparable that you can offer instead?

Maybe. At the moment I'm experimenting with a few other printing processes that use pigment ink and optically clear acrylic to create the same effect that viewers enjoy in metal prints. I need to see how a few of these prints turn out before I mass-market them, but they could become an offering in the future. Stay tuned.

How do prints ship?

I ship all prints between several layers of foam core and cardboard. This packaging keeps them flat and provides plenty of rigidity during shipping. No tubes here; rolled prints are liable to dent and crimp. I also always send prints with insurance. So far I've had a 100% success rate, but of course, things can happen on the truck and in the warehouse, so on the odd chance that your print arrives damaged, please let me know as soon as possible and I will make sure it's rectified.

Consultation

If you can't decide on an image or size, feel free to send me a message and we can work together to find which pictures and sizes would work best for you.